continuation day 2.......

A few kilometers past the cross is the "one house" town of Manjarin, located on a downhill slope. As we crest the hill, we are greeted by a ringing bell from what looks like a hippie commune full of singing German tourists. This is the refugio run by Thomas, a self-appointed knight providing food and lodging to pilgrims (donations only). To lift the spirits of tired pilgrims, he sounds his bell every time a pilgrim shows on the horizon. There is a party atmosphere in the commune as he serves home brewed wine to the pilgrims. A memorable experience on the Camino! Different nationalities trying to communicate with the Camino as the only common bonding theme.

That's Thomas (middle) - the modern day knight of Manjarin.

Thank God he had a helmet on. The rocks were so sharp that the helmet punctured. We can never emphasize enough the importance of going slow on the switchbacks. In times of crisis, everyone was there to help.

Still in disbelief after the accident, we continue on to meet our friend at the next town. From this point to Molinaseca, it is a continuous winding 15 km descent. First town we pass is El Acebo, a small village where most houses have overhanging balconies. The village's cobblestone road has a center ditch for drainage. Fearing a spill, we all walk our bikes through town.

Past El Acebo, the switchbacks become more extreme with blind corners. We occasionally stop to cool our rims down.

We finally arrive at Molinaseca, a pretty village with a Romanesque bridge. We highly recommend staying in this town instead of the more industrialized city of Ponferada. We push on because our comrade was brought to the larger hospital in Ponferada. Our lodging is at the Hotel Temple - a hotel suggested by the good Samaritan bus driver.

Day 3 - Still at Ponferada

To help our injured comrade, we stay another day in Ponferada. This gives us extra time to explore the old town including the ruins of the old castle of the Knights of the Templar. Who were the Templars? They were knights (during the 1200's) who protected pilgrims from bandits on the route.

What was once the Castle of the Knights of Templar

 The remaining 8 riders push on, now more motivated to finish the route for our friend. Tomorrow's ride is the dreaded 7 star rating (from Ponferada to O'Cebreiro).

The Spanish toilets (servicios) are the cleanest we've seen compared to previous trips. Even the smallest restaurant in the middle of nowhere would have a "he and she" flush toilets (2 metal doors on the left). They are so clean you won't mind sitting without a liner.