Day 5 - Las Herreiras to Samos

Day 5 - Las Herreiras to Samos
(Sept. 24, 1999 to Oct 10, 1999)

by J. Gaerlan

Gaerlan Custom Cycles

www.gaerlan.com

day 5 - Las Herreiras to Samos - about 45 km - about a 7 star.

Now it's time to face the most difficult ride of the trip. At this elevation, the temperature is COLD in the morning. The grazing land behind the hotel is frosted.
It's only a 12 km ride to O'Cebreiro - short it seems.

The old N-V1 road is a long unending climb. Cars are rare since most of the traffic is now on the newer highway. Even newer is the superhighway under construction. Huge pillars extending from the bottom of the valley floor extend hundred of feet up towering over the Camino.

Leaving Herreiras, a dog we nicknamed Sir George follows us for 5 miles to the town of Piedrafita. We cross the border separating the provinces of Leon and Castille.

At Piedrafita, we thought the climb is over. To test the spirits of a true pilgrim, the road continues a few more miles to O'Cebreiro on an uphill. At this elevation, the vista is inspiring. After almost 3 hours of riding, we are in O'Cebreiro. Riding speed is under 3 miles an hour. This climb deserves the 7 star rating. It's good we cut yesterday's ride short. Had we not, we would have reached O'Cebreiro late evening.

O'Cebreiro is a small village famous for its circular stone dwellings with thatched roofs, influenced by the Celtics. In the 11th century, this town housed a hospital for pilgrims.

Uphills should lead to downhills. From this point on, it is rolling and mostly downhills. There is a long downhill for at least 10 km until Triacastela. It's a long gradual descent, so enjoy the ride! It's one of the prettiest sections of the route.

Needing a pilgrim's stamp, we venture into the center of town. We're greeted by a group of pilgrims on horseback singing flamenco. They are no regular pilgrims - they have 2 support vehicles, tote cell phones and their horses are of show quality. Rich pilgrims for sure. Apparently, they are professional equestrians, not professional singers. Another magical moment of the Camino!

Our final destination is Samos. Its dominant structure is the 17th Century Benedictine Monastery. Guided tours at the monastery (about $2) are in Spanish only. Our lodging for tonight is Hostal Victoria at 6ooo ptas per night. Dinner is at the hostal's comedor (dining room) for 1050ptas. It seems to be THE PLACE since all the pilgrims we see on the road are eating the same menu del dia (menu of the day).

Day 4
RETURN TO MAIN PAGE

Day 6

day 5 - Las Herreiras to Samos - about 45 km - about a 7 star.
	Now it's time to face the most difficult ride of the trip. At this elevation, the temperature is COLD in the morning. The grazing land behind the hotel is frosted. It's only a 12 km ride to O'Cebreiro - short it seems.
The old N-V1 road is a long unending climb. Cars are rare since most of the traffic is now on the newer highway. Even newer is the superhighway under construction. Huge pillars extending from the bottom of the valley floor extend hundred of feet up towering over the Camino. Leaving Herreiras, a dog we nicknamed Sir George follows us for 5 miles to the town of Piedrafita. We cross the border separating the provinces of Leon and Castille.
	At Piedrafita, we thought the climb is over. To test the spirits of a true pilgrim, the road continues a few more miles to O'Cebreiro on an uphill. At this elevation, the vista is inspiring. After almost 3 hours of riding, we are in O'Cebreiro. Riding speed is under 3 miles an hour. This climb deserves the 7 star rating. It's good we cut yesterday's ride short. Had we not, we would have reached O'Cebreiro late evening.
O'Cebreiro is a small village famous for its circular stone dwellings with thatched roofs, influenced by the Celtics. In the 11th century, this town housed a hospital for pilgrims.
	Uphills should lead to downhills. From this point on, it is rolling and mostly downhills. There is a long downhill for at least 10 km until Triacastela. It's a long gradual descent, so enjoy the ride! It's one of the prettiest sections of the route.
Needing a pilgrim's stamp, we venture into the center of town. We're greeted by a group of pilgrims on horseback singing flamenco. They are no regular pilgrims - they have 2 support vehicles, tote cell phones and their horses are of show quality. Rich pilgrims for sure. Apparently, they are professional equestrians, not professional singers. Another magical moment of the Camino!
	Our final destination is Samos. Its dominant structure is the 17th Century Benedictine Monastery. Guided tours at the monastery (about $2) are in Spanish only. Our lodging for tonight is Hostal Victoria at 6ooo ptas per night. Dinner is at the hostal's comedor (dining room) for 1050ptas. It seems to be THE PLACE since all the pilgrims we see on the road are eating the same menu del dia (menu of the day).
Day 4 RETURN TO MAIN PAGE Day 6