Day 6 - Samos to Melide

 

(Sept. 24, 1999 to Oct 10, 1999)

by J. Gaerlan

Gaerlan Custom Cycles

www.gaerlan.com

day 6 - Samos to Melide - about 60 km - about 4 star

With 2 remaining days left to reach Santiago, we have to push a little harder. We have passed the hardest stages. The remaining stages are rolling to flat roads, but longer mileages.

 

After a brief stop at Sarria for the pilgrim's stamp, we are off to Portomarin. The Camino diverts away from the highway. Half of us decide to take the Camino while the rest takes the highway. The Camino adds about an hour more over dirt roads, but also adds magic to the ride. After crossing some railroad tracks, the road turns into a forest road, shaded by towering oaks. One of the wooden bridges we cross is featured in a public TV travel show. Some sections are steep, but walking your bike is always an option.

 

About halfway to Portomarin, the Camino again merges with the main highway. Portomarin is a new community reborn in the 60's. The old village of Portomarin bordered the river banks and was being swallowed by the rising river. To preserve the ancient church, it was relocated literally stone by stone to its new location. If you look at the relocated church at the town center, you can still see the numerical labels on each piece of stone.

That's Alfredo on the far left of the table.

 

About 10 km before Palas De Rei, the Camino becomes a secondary road. We stop off for a late lunch at a roadside cafe. We again opt for our "soup of the day" ritual. While eating, a Spanish pilgrim named Alfredo walks in. Alfredo is such a fast walker that we have been playing tag for a few days now. His mileage on foot is the same as on our bikes. He claims a friend even walks faster than he does!

 

Otto, a pilgrim from Brazil also walks in. We met him previously in Villafranca. A motorcycle mechanic, Otto is a very non-traditional cyclist. He smokes and drinks Coke during his breaks, wears denim jeans and only rides his bike on the flats and downhills. If it's a climb, he walks up. He claims it keeps him fresh the whole day. Don't laugh at his technique. It works! He is always not too far behind us.

Another magic of the Camino is meeting all these characters. No matter what language you speak, everyone connects somehow.

Spanish roads are by far one of the cleanest roads we've ridden on. No broken glasses on the roads. As for drivers, they really give you space. On one occasion, a car coming from the opposite direction was driving on the shoulder. I was wondering why? It only dawned on me when a truck passed us straddling the centerline. The passing truck was giving us extra wide room to the point that the oncoming traffic had to move to its shoulder.

Tonight's lodging is at Hostal Xaneiro II as recommended by the Confraternity guide. At 3500 ptas, it is clean. They have a set meal for 800 ptas - a limited choice but very filling and with all the wine you can drink.

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